So you want to climb a 14er? More specifically you want to climb a 14er in the state of Colorado. Maybe you’re planning a trip to come visit soon or maybe you already live here and have just never gotten around to it. Either way, climbing a 14er, or any mountain for that matter can be daunting to someone who doesn’t have the experience to approach it confidently. While I cant give you the experience, you’ll have to conquer the mountain on your own, I can share with you all of the knowledge and know-how that I have acquired over the years to help prepare and position you for a safe, enjoyable, and hopefully successful day in the mountains!
Making the decision to climb a 14er is obviously the first step, but unless you simply plan on driving to the top of Pikes Peak, you are going to have to put in some leg work to ensure that you have the knowledge, fitness, and gear to make it to the top. There are many things to consider when planning your climb so we will go through each aspect individually to ensure we that cover all of the bases.
The first thing you are going to need to do is to figure out when you plan on actually climbing. This decision should include factors such as your availability, what kind of crowds or experience you are hoping to get, and most importantly, the difficulties and dangers of seasonal weather/conditions. I’ve compiled a list of general items below for your consideration:
Ultimately, when to climb surrounds the presence (or absence) of snow. Without snow you can drive all the way up to the trailhead because the roads are clear. You might not be able to park because it is generally the most crowded time of year so you will have to get there earlier than everyone else to ensure a spot for your vehicle. Once you get on the trail, you should be treated to (mostly) straightforward, snow-free paths and once you get to the summit you can probably expect at least a few bystanders in the background of your summit photo. Most importantly though, you should always know the forecast, watch the sky, and, as a general rule of thumb, be off the summit (preferably back below the tree line) by noon) to avoid the all too common afternoon thunderstorms that form rapidly in the mountains of Colorado. (Additional Note: The overcrowding issue becomes less of a problem the further you venture away from the larger metropolitan areas. It’s completely possible to have a San Juan summit to yourself in the summer with a bit of luck and driving time.)
Alternatively, when there is snow in the mountains you can expect some added challenge (and reward) to your climb. For starters, once a snowpack has been established you will most likely be unable to reach the standard trailheads for most 14ers and will instead have to hike in to the summer starting points which can add significant mileage to your climb. Once you start climbing you will likely either need flotation (snow shoes, skis, split board, etc.) or traction (micro spikes, crampons, etc.) to travel safely and efficiently on the snow. You will also be able take more direct routes to the summit than you could have during the summer but you should absolutely have the appropriate experience and training necessary to travel on snow safely (to avoid/deal with avalanches, tree wells, and other potential dangers). If you can manage all of this however, you will be treated to potentially empty trails, summits, and some of the best views that Colorado has to offer.
Choosing a target fourteener can be overwhelming given the number of options (58) but using a couple of qualifying questions you can really start to narrow down “The List” until you find the best one for you.
First and foremost, you need to be honest with yourself in determining your skill level and what “Class” you can handle (14ers.com has a great page outlining how 14ers are rated and what each rating/class means. Click Here to learn more!). If you have minimal to no experience hiking then I would not recommend choosing a route above Class 2. If you some experience hiking and are comfortable with exposure then you might be able to expand your considerations to include Class 3. If you are an experienced mountaineer with confidence in exposed and no-fall situations then you could consider the entire list but I would encourage you to at least find an experienced climbing partner for safety. Click Here for a list of 14er Routes by Difficulty/Rating.
With a Class range in mind, the other component of “difficulty” I’d recommend that you consider is route/trail length. Pikes Peak may be listed as a “Class 1” on the “Difficulty List” but the Barr Trail is over twenty miles long and I doubt you’d be able to find any 14er veteran who would tell you that it was easier than the Class 2 routes on Mt Sherman. Remember that “Class” is a mostly objective measure of how dangerous the actual trail itself is but it does not consider how long the trail is which I believe should be an important consideration. (Note: The listing of 14ers Route by Difficulty above also lists the lengths of those routes for your consideration.)
Once you’ve narrowed down your potential options based on difficulty range and length then you need to figure out which ones you can even get to. Some trailheads are right off the road while others require high clearance four-wheel drive and a very skilled driver. Click Here for a list of Trailheads and 14ers by “Road Difficulty” to determine which ones are still on your radar. (Note: Online groups and other social circles often promote ride-sharing to trailheads for improved experiences in the mountains (environmentally better, improved parking usage, etc.). This could be an option to help get you to more difficult to reach trailheads if you are able and open to linking up with other climbers.)
Now that you know which 14ers you can handle and which ones you can get to with your current transportation options, the next thing to consider is what kind of experience do you want. This is totally subjective and I cannot give you specific direction but rather more general guidelines based on your responses.
Once you’ve decided on a 14er and have a general idea of when you plan to climb it, you/ll need to make sure that you establish a training (or maintenance) program to ensure that your body is up to the task. While everyone is different and there isn’t a one size fits all approach to training, you will want to work towards being able to ascend (and descend) a minimum of three to four thousand feet of elevation and go for at least eight miles. This can vary depending on the 14er you intend to do but this is generally a good rule of thumb. Make sure you work towards a goal that is beyond the specs of your intended target as you definitely don’t want to plan on finishing with an empty tank. Climbing a mountain is only half the journey and you need to make sure that not only can you get down safely but that you can also make the drive home (or back to wherever you may be staying).
If you are interested in general fitness for mountaineering and have the time/desire to learn more I would recommend reading “Training for the New Alpinism.” It is an amazing resource that can help guide you on how best to prepare for your time in the mountains and I refer to my copy regularly to ensure that I continually improve upon my own training regiment.
As you get closer to when you intend to climb you should start to observe condition/trip reports (available on 14ers.com, Facebook Groups, and other online communities) as well as the weather forecasts to start narrowing down the best window in which to attempt your climb. Weather in Colorado can be very unpredictable so I’d recommend at least planning a date range for your climb to give yourself some flexibility and the highest chance of success. Betting too much on a single date could result in a lot of time and effort being put into a potentially scrubbed climb if the weather does not cooperate.
I recommend using the resources listed for each of the key factors below to determine the best day(s) to approach your climb.
Climbing safely in the mountains is a function of three things: Knowledge (Experience and/or Research), Preparation (Fitness and Planning), and Gear. Having the right gear can be the difference between life and death in the mountains so you definitely want to ensure that you always equip yourself appropriately for the task at hand.
As your planned climbing day approaches you should start making your final decisions for your climb. These include where you are going, how you are going to get there, what time you should be leaving, and exactly what you are going to pack for your trip. It would definitely be most ideal to have everything pre-planned out and completed (including the packing component) before the actual night preceding your climb. This should enable you to get a good nights rest before the big day so that on the morning of all you need to do is execute the plan. You’ve put in the time researching and planning your trip. You’ve done your training to prepare your body for the task at hand, and you know what you have to do. So put it all together and do it!
Once you’ve arrived at the trailhead and taken your first step towards the summit you will likely experience a wave of excitement crossed with anxiety about what lies ahead. Don’t stress, just tell yourself that you’ve got this and start moving forward. As you start your ascent make sure that you stick to your game-plan and don’t get too ahead of yourself. You will have a long day ahead of you and you don’t want to burn yourself out at the start by adopting an unsustainable pace. Pay attention to your breathing (and your heart rate if you can) to ensure that you are moving at a reasonable rate of speed that isn’t sending your body into overdrive.
As you move uphill, plan to take a break at least once every hour to ninety minutes. These breaks should not be long, drawn out events but long enough for you to catch your breath, relax for a moment, and hydrate/fuel your body. These breaks will be important in maintaining your composure and drive to keep using forward.
Beware the false hopes given by false summits as most 14ers will have at least a few of these. If you studied your route hard enough you will know when you are getting close to the top. Also, do not be discouraged by being passed or passing someone else already on their decent. Everyone is working towards the same goal but at the end of the day we are each on your own journey so don’t let anyone else’s progress get you down or impact how you are approaching your climb (your pace). Stick to your game-plan and focus on taking care of yourself as you continue on. You can do this!
Finally, when you reach the summit take a moment to absorb your accomplishment and be in the moment. Look out across the beautiful landscape and feel the cool mountain air around you. You’ve reached the top and that should be celebrated. Take a photo, have a rewarding snack, or just relax for a moment. BUT REMEMBER: The summit is only the half way point! Always make sure you save enough fuel in the tank and time on the clock to get back down safely!
Once you’ve finished enjoying your time on the summit (or at least grabbed a quick photo) if you see the weather starting to move in, it’s time to start your descent. This is where trekking poles can truly earn their place in your pack as the descent presents its own challenges and obstacles. Be careful not to move too quickly or get ahead of yourself because the down climb can be especially hard on your feet, joints, and your body if you let it. Move with purpose and confidence to ensure a safe return to the trailhead and don’t forget to mix in a little self-maintenance (food, water, & rest) along the way as necessary.
Climbing a 14er can be as easy or as difficult as you make it. In the end, proper preparation and planning will ensure a safe and rewarding experience. Lastly, once you have climbed one you can check this off your bucket list but be warned, climbing fever catches easily and the other 57 have a way of calling you back into the mountains!