When it comes to “Technical Climbing Jackets” there are few as notorious as the Arc’teryx Alpha SV. This jacket is designed with nearly every modern feature a climbing jacket should have and is routinely revised to ensure that the latest version is always constructed with the best materials available. Naturally this also means that there is a hefty premium associated with this product which begs the question about whether it is worth the cost. Having owned this piece for a couple years now I can offer some insights into the good and the bad so that hopefully you can decide for yourself!
For starters, anyone new to the “Arc’teryx” brand would do well to research and understand how their products are named. This product naming system includes lines such as Alpha, Beta, Gamma, etc. which are each focused on a different need. (Alpha, being their technical alpine line, is focused specifically on the needs of an alpine climber.) Within each line they also have multiple models referred to as FL (Fast & Light), LT (Lightweight), AR (All-Round), SV (Severe), and so on. Each of these models have unique differences that can even further tailor the piece to meet a very specific need such as enhanced durability, packability, or weight savings. (The Alpha SV specifically is the burliest (most heavy-duty) variant of the Alpha product line as it is intended for use in the most severe of conditions.)
As of writing this (January 2020) the Alpha SV retails for $799 and is available in an array of colors. These colors change each year and every couple of years there are minor updates and revisions to ensure that these jackets remain at the forefront of innovation. They are currently constructed of Gore-Tex Pro making them waterproof and highly resistant to abrasion. Additionally, these jackets include climbing and safety focused features such as a “StormHood”, Pit-Zips, and RECCO reflectors built-in. You can learn more about all of the latest features and specifics on the product page linked at the bottom of this review.
After owning this jacket for a few years now and using it for everything from mountaineering in the Alaskan Range (Denali) to trekking in an African jungle, I have definitely grown quite fond of it. It is undeniably durable and I have never worried about it getting damaged in my pack or while in use. Naturally you will want to avoid sharp objects (ice axes, knives, etc.) to ensure that it doesn’t get punctured but as far as normal wear and tear, the jacket still looks as good as it did the day I bought it. As for the design features there are a lot of things to like. The pit zips can be a lifesaver when you want to regulate temperature but still need the waterproof protection of a hard shell jacket. The StormHood has multiple methods of adjustment to fine tune the fit. (Bear in mind though that the StormHood is designed to be used over a helmet so it can be quite baggy if you are not wearing any headgear. I would recommend wearing a hat with a bill on it in the absence of a helmet to prevent the hood from falling down into your face.) There is ample storage built into the jacket with pockets on the chest, arm, and interior to store any number of things you may need quick access to. Ultimately, there is a lot to like about this piece! In fact, the only area where it has fallen short for me is the hemline which drops lower in the back but is a bit shorter up front.
So, is it worth the $800 price tag though? I think that depends on what you intend to do with it. If you are a dedicated climber making multiple alpine ascents a year or if you live in Ouray and climb ice routes all winter then yes, this jacket was built for you. Unfortunately this is not most people (even if they often wish it was) and the average joe would probably benefit most from a single hard shell that could meet all of their outdoor needs instead of just the climbing specific ones. With this in mind, the Arc’teryx Beta line of jackets is a much more appropriate choice (for most people) at a SLIGHTLY better price point.
TL;DR/Summary: If you want a climbing specific hard shell then look no further because this is the penultimate choice. BUT if you want one solid hard shell that can be used for all of your outdoor needs (climbing, skiing, hiking, etc.) then I’d recommend checking out the Arc’teryx Beta line of jackets to find something that’s a bit more versatile (and less expensive).
Height: 6’1″
Weight: 185lbs
Size: Large (Sized with room to layer)
Color: Poseidon